
One of my friends once told me
that, in the mountains one quite often tends to visit the same places more than once. Its been quite
true for me in that I have climbed twice in Sikkim, thrice in Ladakh and so on;
but with Gulmarg, its been a prolonged affair. Its hard to reason out this
constant need for more in Gulmarg. Afterall there are other places in India
where one can ski off piste. There is Manali and then there is Auli. So why
Gulmarg? The Kashmir valley is rife with militancy, political unrest, constant bandhs
and what not. In the last few years that I have visited Kashmir, I have almost
always landed at Srinagar in the midst of a statewide bandh, with illiterate
youth, who neither care for the cause of the province, nor are aware of who
their instigators are, waiting to hurl stones (for a couple of 100 rupees) at
vehicles plying between Srinagar and Gulmarg (perhaps to other neighbouring
villages and towns as well). Perhaps the apt ones to answer this question are
the number of foreigners who visit Gulmarg just to explore the Afarwat.
Especially the ones who I keep running into year after year. Its the same story
each year. Bandh on arrival, stone pelting or road blockade on departure. But
if one can somehow rise above this irksome recurrence, there is so much fun to
be had in Gulmarg. Its almost as if Gulmarg is cut off from the rest of the state.
In my numerous visits to this small village, I have not once come across a
violent incident related to militancy or law and order.
I was using Dynastar Legend this
year. Good all purpose skis. After I continued skiing at Highland and 85 slope
for a couple more days after moving out of Bakshis. By the fifth day I was
feeling pretty good about going to the mountains. I was planning on doing a
couple of downhill runs from Merry shoulder, but the chair lift was under
maintenance. Therefore the only two options left for me were to go to the top
of Afarwat or to ski down from Kongdoori (also known as phase 1). I chose the
former. The run from the top of Afarwat to Kongdoori was pretty nasty. Had a
couple of mighty falls, but since the limbs were in their respective places, I
continued skiing after a brief inspection of my equipment. The rest of that day
was spent skiing down from Kongdoori to G1 (point where the Gondola service begins
- quite near the resort). I must have done may be 10 runs, since the Gondola
was up all day.
The following day, I came back to
the mountain. I was not keen on going to the top. I wanted to explore new
routes between Kongdoori and G1. After may be 4 rounds, on my way up towards
Kongdoori in the Gondola, I met with a chap who called himself Hem. He offered
me some water since I was thirsty and had somehow managed to empty my water
bladder. It turned out that he was an officer in the Army, posted at the HAWS.
The two of us hit it off rightaway. He told me that he belonged to the 108 NDA
course. I told him about my brief visit to the NDA in 2001. We did about a
dozen rounds together. After a few hours on the mountain, we decided to call it
quits. Hem was kind enough to drop me at my Hotel and he even invited me to
HAWS before leaving Gulmarg.
The following day, I did to Merry
shoulder, what Hem and I did to Kongdoori. I cant remember how many runs I did
between Merry shoulder and Kongdoori. Must have been at least a dozen. It had
snowed the previous night and the conditions were fantastic. Its amazing how
quickly a mountain as big as Afarwat gets tracked out. 2013 was tremendous in
that regard. There were very few bad weather days this time. Almost every time
I was on the mountain, the weather was favourable. In the evenings I used to
meet with Mangal, Jitu and other instructors at JIM. Very good friends and
humble people. As are most soldiers from the army. Mangal and Jitu are on
deputation at JIM. After a brief chat, I usually head out to try out the local
cuisine. Rista (spicy meat balls), Mathe Maaz (Minced meat in gravy), Sheekh
Kebab (Spiced meat on skewers), Kokur (Chicken in red gravy), Kashmiri Roti,
etc. I mostly ate at the restaurant in Yemberzaal. I seldom ate out, and that
too only for change of taste.
After a couple of weeks, it was
time to head back home. These two weeks were the best of all times I have
visited this beautiful place in the past. The day before leaving Gulmarg, I
called on Hem. It was a sunday and he was busy with a demonstration in his
unit. I met with a few of his fellow officers. Ben, Boro and Chandra. All fine
gentlemen, as one would expect of an officer. After a drink with the boys, I
thought it apt to return to the hotel and begin packing for the flight the
following day. The skiing experience was excessively satisfying this year. The
piste conditions in the resort were splendid. Off piste skiing was brilliant.
Unfortunately, the only thing this year that was consistent with the past was
the unrest. On my way back, there were blockades, because a guy called Afzal
Guru had been hanged and the locals felt that that was reason enough to smash
windows of vehicles transporting innocent tourists. I was traveling with 4
foreigners who were quite anxious since we got into the cab. I assured them
that we would reach unharmed at the airport. We were held up at Tangmarg for a
while but were mobile in about 15 minutes. I noticed an army convoy and asked
the driver to stay with the army. In a couple of hours we reached the airport.
I reached Chennai by 11 in the night.